20 September 2010

Ágatha Ruìz de la Prada: Colorful Revolution of a soul!

One Shot #1
"Spain isn't provided with a perception of freedom when it comes to clothes: you must feel free, comfortable. You have the chance to keep the constrictions of modern life away from you. At least with what you're wearing. In Spain this is far from being achieved so this is what I'm trying to do myself."
Ágatha Ruìz de la Prada, 1983.

Glam also lives in revolution, instinct also plays a role in fashion.
Ágatha Ruìz de la Prada represents the power of Spain at its best, a country ready to explode culturally and socially through the Spanish Movida: after the death of dictator Franco in 1979 oppression is no more tolerated in Spain. Everything starts in Madrid: Ágatha was born here, she starts working in fashion in 1981, therefore her creativity is the direct expression of the new look at the world.
Times of punk and new wave also arrived in Madrid and while this city gets colored and joyful in the aftermath of Franco's fall, a whole new suburban world comes out: a positive and colorful chess of new subversive values and ideas comes to surface in the city.
Madrid and Spain are considered the most powerful and creative sources of inspiration in the whole world because of their angry retort to a suffocating historical and cultural setting. Optimistic aggressively of Andy Warhol, the Niki de Saint Phalle's nanas, Velázquez's meninas, cubism by Picasso, all of them are living in Ágatha's creations.
Imagine Spain in 1982 and think about Pedro Almodòvar provocative mises en scène, think about Alphaville first pop steps , think about Ágatha Ruìz de la Prada playful mood. The deconstructed, unfitted, cosmic shapes she builds with raw and natural materials like silk, mohair and cotton; her plastic sculptures painted with exciting flashes of bubble gum pink, yellow, orange: every single element wants to forget the past, what is known-and-worn. She craves the unknown, the unconventional.
It's like going back to the joyous tunes of childhood, to theatre as the game of impersonating characters, objects and sensations.
Today's fashion is looking further of course, but Ágatha's fluo strength and sense of divertissement is something not to be forgotten, as sense of humor seems just too naive to lots of people.
Meat dresses are admitted, of course.

Spread the word!


f/w Ready to wear 2009 - f/w ready to wear 2008

Niki de Saint Phalle's "Adam & Eve"



"La Spagna non conosce la libertà e la comodità in fatto di abiti. Ciò che indossiamo può offrire una fuga agli obblighi quotidiani. In Spagna non esiste nulla del genere e io voglio farlo con le mie creazioni."
Ágatha Ruìz de la Prada, 1983.

Istinto e rivoluzione giocano in prima linea nella scacchiera della moda. Accade.
La Spagna degli anni '80 è pronta ad esplodere dopo la conclusione della dittatura di Franco nel 1979, e così lo stile inconfondibile di Ágatha Ruìz de la Prada.
Nasce a Madrid, entra nel fashion world nel 1981, legata a doppio filo alla movida madrilena, alla rivoluzione sessuale, creativa. Il momento del punk e della new wave arriva anche per la calda Madrid, che rinasce dalle austere ceneri dell'oppressione in una strabordante, caotica metropoli ridipinta a nuovo: dai sotterranei della vecchia città emerge un altro mondo, preda di tensioni sgargianti e sovversive.
Nell'opera di Ágatha il cubismo di Picasso, le meninas di Velázquez e l'aggressività ottimista di Andy Warhol convivono, così come nella Spagna intera. Tutta la nazione è ormai pronta a ricevere avanguardie, nuove personalità, influenze creative di ogni espressione artistica e diviene fonte di ispirazione per tutta Europa per la sua agguerrita risposta alla fine della dittatura.
Immaginate la Spagna del 1982 in piena movida, pensate ai controversi lavori di Almodòvar, ai primi passi nel pop degli Alphaville, al mood giocoso di Ágatha. La decostruzione, la ricerca dell'imperfetto, degli elementi della natura (lune, stelle, fiori sono il suo marchio di fabbrica), di materiali naturali come mohair, seta, cotone, maglia; gli abiti-scultura, colorati di rosa, giallo, arancio fluo, come le nanas di Niki de Saint Phalle: ogni singolo elemento spinge dal passato verso un nuovo e positivo presente, verso l'inaspettato, il non convenzionale.
A volte ricorda una canzone che cantavamo da bambini, a volte il teatro, l'interpretare persone, oggetti, emozioni.
Tutto questo é scontato, la moda guarda oltre, direte in molti. In realtà il senso di divertissement, la forza tagliente e simbolica di Ágatha credo siano da non sottovalutare, oggi il sense of humour è ostracizzato e considerato naif da troppi.
Meat dresses esclusi, naturalmente.

Ditelo in giro!



Tommaso Pollo's "One Shot" for Fashilosophy!




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